It had been a long time since I had done any trekking or intense physical activity. I was not sure if I could manage this trek. I worried that I might get too tired or that my body was not prepared for the climb. When my friends from Soul Treks invited me to join a trek to Brahmagiri Hills, I decided to go. Even though Brahmagiri and the Thirunelli area are only about thirty kilometers from my hometown, I had never done the trek before. I had visited the Thirunelli Temple several times, but the only memory of exploring this forest area was from my childhood. Nearly fifteen years ago, I had joined a small nature camp organized by Pazhassi Library in Mananthavady. We had walked a short jungle trail in this same region, but it was nowhere near as long or challenging as this trek. This time it felt like I was revisiting a childhood memory in a much larger and more intense way. This journey took place on November 29 & 30, 2024.
Flowing with the sacred streams
Our journey began with a pickup from Mananthavady. By the afternoon, our group of seventeen reached the Forest Station at Thirunelli, where we would stay for the night. Normally, the Forest Department organizes smaller groups for trekking with official guides, and visitors can register on-site if slots are available. But this program was organized for a larger group. The Forest Department arranged our stay in a modest dormitory right at the base of the Brahmagiri trek. It was a plain, extended house with just a few rooms, cared for by the staff. Nothing luxurious, just the bare essentials, but that made it all the more fitting for the setting. What I liked most was its location. Being away from the main road and any commercial noise, the place was quiet and calm.The facilities were basic, certainly not what you’d expect from a hotel, but they were more than enough for what we needed ! A simple night’s rest before the climb.
In the evening, we walked to the banks of the Kalindi River. This river, locally known as Kalindi, is not the more famous Kalindi also called Yamuna. It originates at the base of Brahmagiri Hills, flowing through forests, farmlands, and small villages. Taking a dip in its cold water was refreshing and thrilling after the day of travel.
After the riverbath , we went to the Thirunelli Temple, often called the Kashi of the South. It is famous for rituals conducted for departed souls, believed to help their liberation. The sacred Papanashini stream, which originates from the Brahmagiri Hills and meets the Kalindi River, adds spiritual significance to the visit. Walking around the temple surrounded by dense forests made the place feel both mystical and serene.
By evening, we returned to the dormitory and were served tea. After that, we had an interactive session with Muneer Tholpetty, who spoke about human-wildlife conflict, explaining how elephants and other animals often travel through corridors that intersect with human settlements. He also highlighted climate change and its impact on forests and wildlife. Listening to him made me realize that trekking in these forests comes with a responsibility to respect and protect the environment. After the session, we had a simple but comforting dinner of kanji (rice gruel), payar (green gram), chammanthi (chutney), and pappadam.
Flames of connection
After dinner, we gathered around a campfire set just outside the dormitory. We sat in a circle, sharing stories about our experiences, our love for nature, and our travel adventures. Among us, Mujeebikka and Dayan Chettan, the two senior trekkers, stood out. They had explored many trails across the country and shared fascinating stories from their journeys. Their insights and experiences inspired the rest of us.
Even those with less trekking experience shared their thoughts and memories, and listening to everyone made the evening feel warm and connected. The fire crackled as we laughed, reflected on life, and felt a quiet bond with the forest around us. It was a perfect ending to the day, a moment of togetherness under the open sky before sleeping to the sounds of the forest at night.
The forest awakens
I woke up very early, before sunrise. The electricity had failed, leaving the dormitory in complete darkness. A few others were awake too. The forest around us was alive with sounds, rustling leaves, distant calls, and the silence in between. The dormitory is located close to the forest edge, and the officials had told us that elephants, deer, and smaller animals often pass nearby.
Curious and a little nervous, I stepped outside with two others. We walked quietly through the small clearing in front of the dormitory. My heart was pounding with a mix of fear and excitement. Then, in the distance, two glowing eyes appeared. For a moment, I felt frightened, but then we realized they belonged to a pair of deer moving gracefully through the night before disappearing into the forest. That small encounter felt magical.
By the time the first light of day appeared, we had a hearty breakfast of idli and sambar. Some of us took a short walk around the nearby areas to stretch and warm up before the climb. Then, we returned to the dormitory to prepare for the trek.
Lost in the mist, Found in the moment !
Our group formed behind a young forest guide. At the entrance of the trail, wooden sticks were kept for trekkers. Each of us picked one for support as we knew the climb would be steep. The trek is about ten kilometers and climbs to the summit of Brahmagiri Hills at 1608 meters. We carried light snacks such as bananas, a few fruits, and small bites. Experienced trekkers among us shared advice on pacing, handling the steep sections, and keeping up morale. The climb began gently but soon became challenging. I struggled at certain points because I had not prepared for such a steep trek. But every pause offered rewarding views of forests, streams, and rolling hills.
After about three kilometers of trekking, we finally reached a watch tower. It was the perfect place to take a break and catch our breath. The tower is really tall, probably as high as a four or five story building, and climbing to the top felt exciting. From there, the view was amazing. I could see the Thirunelli Temple, the village, and the surrounding mountains all covered in lush green. The landscape around us began to change noticeably. The dense forest we had walked through gradually gave way to open meadows, with fewer trees and wider spaces. It felt lighter and freer, as though the forest was opening up to the sky.
For anyone not used to trekking, this point is very doable. The trail up to here is mostly flat and easy to walk on, and even a 4×4 vehicle could reach this far if allowed. There are simple resting spots built by the forest department where you can sit and relax. Fresh water is available from a nearby stream. We did not spot any wild animals, though a few leeches were along the trail !
We spent some time snacking, taking photos, and enjoying the 360 degree view. The contrast between the thick forest behind us and the open meadows ahead made the experience feel even more special. It was a perfect moment to pause, breathe, and take it all in before continuing our climb toward the summit.
After almost three hours hike we reached our destination. Instead of the panoramic views we had seen in pictures and travel stories, we were greeted by thick mist and fog. Everything disappeared into white. At first, I felt a little disappointed, but soon I realized this was another form of beauty. Standing there, surrounded by mist, feeling the cool air on my face, was a strange and wonderful experience. We rested, laughed, and enjoyed the surreal atmosphere before beginning our descent.
The way down was easier, though my legs still felt the strain. By the time we returned to the base, we were tired but happy. The climb had been a physical challenge, but the experience of walking through these forests, witnessing wildlife, and sharing the journey with others made it unforgettable.
Reflections
The Brahmagiri trek was more than just a hike. It was a journey through memories, nature, and personal limits. I reconnected with childhood experiences, discovered the quiet power of the forest, and realized how small humans are in the midst of such vast wilderness. The misty summit, the sounds of the forest at night, the sacred temple, and the support of fellow trekkers made the experience deeply personal. Nature does not always give you what you expect, but what it gives is always worth the effort.