Travel often surprises us most when nothing is planned. That’s exactly what happened to us in Kagoshima. The day started at Sakurajima, circling the volcanic island under the hot sun. By noon, my wife and I were completely drained, without a plan for what to do next. Instead of heading to another tourist spot, we just drove. The road took us through paddy fields and farm villages. We noticed signboards for onsens and public baths everywhere, but it was midday and we weren’t interested in hot water yet. Still, curiosity won. We turned down a quiet road and ended up at a place called Kareigawa no Yu (かれい川の湯). It was a public holiday, and the parking lot was full of cars. We thought there was no chance of getting in, but we walked inside anyway and asked. To our surprise, they had a slot for us. That’s how we stepped into my very first onsen in Japan.
What makes Kareigawa no Yu special is its private rooms. Unlike many onsens where you share a large bath, here you book a room just for yourself, your partner, or your family. The counter staff were very kind and welcoming. We bought our ticket from a vending machine, and the staff at the counter handed us a basket with basic skincare products like body soap, shampoo, facial cleanser, and lotion.
As soon as we entered the corridor leading to the private rooms, the warm lighting and calm atmosphere already made us feel relaxed. Opening the room, I immediately felt the warmth. The first area was a dressing and makeup area, complete with a mirror, a seat, and a wash basin to store our clothes. A small basket provided basic skincare essentials. The next door led to the bath area. It was a wooden pool structure with a shower area outside. The pool was empty at first, but when we turned on the designated switch, it began filling with hot spring water and automatically stopped after a few minutes. There were two additional valves, one to adjust the onsen water temperature and one for adding cold groundwater.
Before entering the pool, the first step was to use soap, shampoo, or other essentials, and take a shower in the normal water to adjust the heat. There was a wooden stool and a round wooden ladle to pour water over your body while sitting. When I dipped my legs into the pool, it felt very hot, but I wanted to experience authentic onsen culture, so I bravely immersed my whole body. At first, the heat was intense and sensitive, but within seconds, it felt like heaven. I relaxed completely and even took a nap for 15 to 20 minutes, probably one of the best naps I have ever had.I did feel a little dehydrated, hungry, and slightly dizzy while coming out of the pool, probably because of the heat or my body adjusting to leaving the warm water. It reminded me that onsens are powerful, and you need to listen to your body.
Looking through the window, the view of the river, the jungle, and the mountains was breathtaking. The sounds of flowing water mixed with the forest made it a truly peaceful experience. As it grew darker outside, the calm deepened. After driving from Fukuoka to Sakurajima under the hot sun, all the fatigue melted away. After one hour, we stepped out feeling refreshed, lighter, and completely relaxed. Of course, we treated ourselves to ice cream. I had matcha, and my wife chose choco-vannilla flavoured !
This first experience taught me that every road trip in Japan should include an onsen stop! What started as curiosity turned into one of the most relaxing, rejuvenating experiences I’ve ever had. The private room, the natural hot spring water, the view, and the peacefulness made Kareigawa no Yu unforgettable.